Red carpet make-up artist, Kelly Cornwell spills the celebrity secrets…
You know when your summer tan starts to fade? Your skin is dry – possibly pigmented, and suddenly your trustworthy tinted moisturiser looks all wrong? Like buying a new coat to keep you warm, the change of seasons requires us all to adapt our make-up wardrobes.
This season, “luminous matte” is the new skin mantra: A flawless, yet natural look that’s shine-free, but still reflects the light to give you that glow. So we asked Kelly Cornwell, make-up artist to Alicia Vikander and Suki Waterhouse, to spill the beans on how the A-list perfect theirs:
Prep: Perhaps even more so than applying foundation itself, prepping the skin is the key to achieving a natural looking glow. When skin is dry after summer, I use ELEMIS Gentle Rose Exfoliator to remove dead cells and create a smooth, healthy canvas for make-up.
The shade: To find your perfect shade, you must test a foundation on your jawline in daylight. Get some shop samples in a few shades if you can, then take a mirror and stand near a window to ensure that the colour blends into the skin without leaving a mark. It should blend into the skin, as if it’s invisible.
The texture: Should be smooth, luxurious and velvety for the Autumn/Winter season ahead. Choose a liquid or powder foundation with a matte finish that contains light-reflecting particles that bounce the light – so you get radiance, not shine. If your skin is particularly oily, apply a loose powder over the chin, forehead and around the nose to remove any excess sebum and add staying power to your foundation.
The technique: Really buffing foundation into the skin with a large synthetic brush creates a flawless, airbrushed effect. Pat foundation over spots, blemishes and under the eyes, warming the product on your fingers first to ensure it melts into the skin and creates invisibly perfect coverage. Tapping ELEMIS Pro-Radiance Illuminating Eye Balm on a couple of minutes before make-up application is also a great way of brightening the area whilst hydrating the skin and plumping lines.
The update: Contouring the cheekbones is a huge trend right now. For a subtle look, you can use foundation rather than powder to sculpt the face. As a rule, anything you want to make disappear into the background (such as the hollows of cheeks, sides of the nose and beneath the jawline) you darken with a slightly deeper shade of foundation. Use a lighter shade on the areas you want to bring to the foreground – think the tops of cheekbones, middle of the nose, temples and cupid’s bow.
The inside trick: Contrary to most women’s make-up routines, I always apply under eye concealer then go over the top with the foundation, or mix the concealer and foundation together so it's the same colour and you don't get that panda effect. Making up your eyes with shadow, liner and mascara before applying concealer also means you can clean up any product that’s dropped beneath the eyes before perfecting your skin.
The finisher: A matte effect can be less forgiving than the dewier looks of summer. So to refresh the product and ensure your foundation doesn’t become ‘cakey’ over the course of the day, apply a light facial mist every few hours. When my bed calls at night, I love using ELEMIS Smart Cleanse Micellar Water. It’s a gentle but easy way to remove foundation in a flash – so I can hop into bed and be asleep in minutes.